Rear control arm upgrade

[OutCast]

Just recently upgraded my stock rear upper and lower control arms to UMI adjustable uppers and tubular lowers. I was also in the transition between changing complete rear ends, so the pics I show will be complete re & re. If you are keeping your same rear end in the car, it is an even simpler process.

With the rear end removed, relocate new control arms and ensure good freedom of travel. In the case of the UMI arms, swab the bushing surfaces with the supplied assembly lube.

Elevate the differential into position with a floor jack and locate control arms with bolts. Install shocks and make sure springs are properly seated.

Ensure control arms fit and replicate stock items...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00813.jpg

Install new lowers to mounts...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00814.jpg

Using floor jack, elevate diff, attach uppers and lowers and shocks...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00816.jpg

You are ready to go...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00822.jpg

[68bowtie]

Looks good, i just picked up a used rearend cover like that. I'm also looking at the same lower control arms but with there new roto joint.

[shadowgray396]

I agree looks good.
Ray

[grumpy]

Looks nice. I am also using the UMI stuff in ours. Can't wait to see how it drives.

[Andy69]

wow, those are red.

How do the tubular lowers compare strength wise to the stock boxed arms?

[OutCast]

They better be as good, or better. That's why I got them. I had boxed ones before.

[BillsCamino]

wow, those are red.

:) I did the same on my '67...red powdercoated UMI upper and lowers along with the braces and both their F&R sway bars.
A good contrast IMO.

[Herbie67SS454]

:) I did the same on my '67...red powdercoated UMI upper and lowers along with the braces and both their F&R sway bars.
A good contrast IMO.

Wow. You guys are doing good.
Outcast: great pics.
Something for me to consider when funds get available.
Bill, I can't wait to check your 67 out. Lots of nice things happening to that ride from what I read.

[grumpy]

Forgot to mention I have the same diff cover except it says DTS on it. Probably one manufacturer supplying most of the companies.

The way I look it at anythings got to drive better then the marshmallow ride we had with the drag springs in there.

[christiansells]

looks awesome.i plan on going with the trz suspension front and rear.

[rak1]

Very nice! I went with Global West and everying is black; the red really stands out!!

[Hank70SS]

Derek, any preference on these rear upper control arms, UMI-4017 or Edelbrock EDE5248?

http://www.cs3automotive.com/index.php

EDIT: Or maybe the UMI-4037. They have a roto-joint, greasable delrin race. If the race wears it can be adjusted or replaced. No metal to metal like the 4017 spherical rod ends.

[Derek69SS]

not sure which arms you're looking at there, as that link just goes to their homepage...

Basically, anything with spherical joints will allow the suspension to function properly without binding, especially in the upper arms. Rod-end type joints do wear out and get noisy in about 20,000 miles. Anything with a Johnny Joint (Currie) or similar (Edelbrock, UMI roto-joint, etc) will both provide the great performance AND long-lasting durability.

Polyurethane bushings really bind up the rear suspension, and should be avoided in the upper arms.

[Hank70SS]

...Polyurethane bushings really bind up the rear suspension, and should be avoided in the upper arms.

Even with spherical joints on one end or you mean poly on both ends? If I get the arms, say the UMI with roto joint I thought I would put poly in the housing. The joint should provide plenty of movement.